The oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, Lamu is a centre for the study of Swahili culture. Although founded in the 13th century, the majority of buildings date from the 18th century. Like Mombasa and Malindi, Lamu was a thriving port and sultanate during the 18th and 19th century when it was frequently at war with its neighbouring island kingdoms of Pate, Siyu and Faza. For 60 years Lamu controlled all trade in the region until the British forced Zanzibar to sign an anti-slaving pact. Thereafter the port was blockaded and missionaries and explorers such as Stanley started to assert their authority. Today the town is a living monument to its past. The old houses, built with coral walls two-feet thick are built with a series of alcoves rather than rooms, whose size is decided by the length of the ten-foot mangrove poles that are used for both floors and ceiling. Many are three-storeys high and feature winding staircases, vast carved doors, intricate fretwork screens, balconies and flat roofs. In the winding streets, the majority of women are black-veiled, while the men wear traditional Swahili dress.  The majority of the population is Muslims; and the town echoes to the call of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer at the 23 mosques of the town. Lamu also hosts the important Maulidi Muslim Festival, which takes place soon after Idd-il-Fitr, and is a festival in celebration of the birth of Mohamed, which attracts pilgrims from all over Africa. The festival features dhow races, donkey races, poetry, theatre, and an extravaganza of food. There is also a Cultural Festival, an Art Festival and a Yoga Festival.

The Lamu Archipelago

The Lamu archipelago is a cluster of hot low-lying desert islands, which runs for some 60 km parallel to the coastline of northern Kenya. The last survivor of a one thousand year-old civilization, Lamu was founded by the Arabs in the seventh century and traded for centuries thereafter in ivory, rhino horn and slaves. Today it offers a unique showcase for the traditional Swahili culture, a bustling historic town and some of the most pristine beaches in Africa. The most famous in the archipelago, measuring about 16 km by 7km, Lamu resembles a smaller version of Zanzibar. Here, however, transport is by foot, donkey or dhow – there are no cars on the island. A magnificent Swahili settlement and a World Heritage Site, Lamu Town is a maze of winding streets and intricately carved doorways, which lies to the north-east of the island. The fishing village of Shela lies to the south (with a 12 km beach), while Kipungani is the local centre for dhow-building and palm-mat weaving. Transfers to Lamu take around 10 minutes by boat from Manda Island. 

What to see and do

Lamu Museum: Housed in a grand Swahili warehouse on the waterfront, this dusty old museum provides an excellent insight into Swahili culture

Lamu Fort: Built by the Sultan of Pate in the 1800s, this squat castle holds the islands library and Swahili poetry collection

Lamu Market: Atmospheric and chaotic, this is the place to buy fresh fish, fruit, vegetables and spices

Swahili House: Visit this perfectly preserved mansion for the full-on flavour of Swahili life

The Donkey Sanctuary: A man without a donkey IS a donkey or so says the Swahili proverb and this sanctuary is devoted to giving sanctuary for some 3,000 donkeys that can no longer work

Shela: An enchanted fishing village with 12km of pristine beach

The German Post Office Museum: Built by the German East Africa Company in the late 1800s, this is now a photographic museum covering the brief period of German rule

Kipungani: A place of dreamy beaches and the centre for dhow building and palm-mat weaving

Manda Island: A short boat hop from Lamu, this is a place of dunes and mangroves, and also the fabulous Takwa Ruins, all that remains of a glorious 15th century city

Pate Island: A forgotten Swahili world, also the site of Shanga the world's most complete example of a medieval Swahili town

Kiwayu Island: Remote, pristine and romantic. Kiwayu lies at the far northeast of the archipelago and has a reputation for causing all its visitors to fall hopelessly in love

The Kiunga Marine National Reserve: A pristine string of 51 rugged coral isles, ringed by rainbow coral reefs, Kiunga promises wheeling seabirds, rare turtles, magical dugongs and an underwater world of unbelievable colour, discovery and vibrancy

Culture Shop: unique buys include carved furniture, Arabian antiques, copper lanterns, hand-made jewellery and exotoc fashions